CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION

FASHION DESIGN DEPARTMENT

CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION NOTES

 

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

WHAT ARE SEWING TOOLS?

Sewing tools are the tools and equipment, both small and large, that are used in machine and hand sewing. The correct tools will make your sewing faster and more professional.

Sewing Tools can be divided into:

• Cutting Tools
• Measuring Tools
• Marking Tools
• Pressing Tools
• Miscellaneous Tools

1. HAND SEWING NEEDLES

Needles are one of the largest categories of sewing tools, you can often get kits with assorted-sized needles so you have sizes for different sewing projects without having to purchase them individually. These are usually labeled universal or sharps needles.

 

TYPESof hand sewing needles

·   SHARPS

·     Sharps is the name of the general-purpose, medium-length hand sewing needles.  Used for hand sewing, dressmaking and all household projects it comes in different sizes and also in multiple packs.  Look for the sizes on the front of the pack. It is always best to have an assorted size pack in your sewing kit so you can pick and choose the best size for your current sewing project.

·   BALLPOINTS

·     Ballpoints have a rounded end so that it does not damage the fibers of knit fabrics. The rounded tip allows the needle to pass through the fibers rather than snagging or cutting through them.

·   CHENILLE

·     Chenille hand sewing needles are used for embroidery and thicker yarn as they have a sharp point and large, elongated eye to enable you to thread several pieces at once. They are most commonly used for cross stitch and needlepoint embroidery. These can be used on tightly woven fabric embroidery since they have a sharp tip.

·   TAPESTRY NEEDLES

·     Tapestry needles are also used for embroidery, but unlike the chenille needle, they have a blunt point. It is used on very open weave fabric where the needle can easily pass through the fibers without needing to pierce through it. Tapestry needles can be used for cross stitch on open-weave fabrics.

·   CREWEL (EMBROIDERY)

·     Crewel needles are also called embroidery needles and have a medium eye and a sharp tip.

·   UPHOLSTERY NEEDLES

·     These curved hand sewing needles are used for sewing upholstery and furniture. They are perfect for sewing where you can only access the outside of the object.

·   QUILTING NEEDLES (BETWEENS)

·     Needles used for sewing through thick quilts have very sharp points and are short and fine with a small rounded eye. The shorter length is designed to produce nice and even stitches on quilts. They can also be used for fine and precise stitching when tailoring

·     PROPERTIES - Sharp Tip - Short Length - Fine

·   BEADING NEEDLE

·     Beading needles are used for sewing beads and sequins. Many are very fine to fit through the eye of small beads like seed beads. They are long as experienced beaders will thread numerous beads at once in a row. When sewing beads, it is best to use a strengthened or specialty beading thread with these needles since the inside of beads is often sharp and can cut regular threads.

·   BODKINS

·     Bodkins are large flat hand sewing needles used to thread elastic through casings. It can also be used to thread ribbon and cord. Bodkins are an efficient replacement for using a safety pin to thread casings. Most have a rounded point so the end of the needle does not pierce the side of the casings making it get stuck. They are best with longer casings as they can be a little hard to maneuver in baby clothing.

·   DARNING

·     Darning needles are for darning socks and mending. They have an elongated large eye for thicker thread or yarn and a semi blunt point. They are used for sewing knitted pieces together as well.

2. MACHINE NEEDLES

Machine needles often come in packs of assorted sizes, saving you from purchasing full packs of different sizes.

3. SAFETY PINS

These are commonly used for threading elastic through casings and turning tubes of fabric the right way out. If you are sewing tulle or quilts, they can be handy to hold thick or multiple layers of fabric together.

4. THIMBLE

While not absolutely necessary, a thimble can protect your fingers when hand sewing. They are generally included in starter sewing supplies kits. If you are planning on sewing any kind of embroidery, then these are a must-have.

5. PINS

Pins are an essential part of sewing tools and equipment as they hold your seams in place. The plastic ball-headed pins are cheap to buy and come in packets of assorted colors.

6. PIN CUSHION

You will need somewhere to keep all your pins safe. A pincushion will be one of your most-used sewing tools. It can be useful to keep an empty one next to your machine at all times so that when you are sewing, you can remove the pins and put them somewhere safe straight away.

The white pincushion in the picture below has a magnetic base to hold your pins in place. Magnetic pincushions are great for running along the floor if you ever drop your pins.

 

 

7. SEWING THREAD

When you are setting up your sewing tools on a budget, invest in a good quality thread like Rasant, Gutterman, Mettler, or Coats and Clark.

8. SEWING SCISSORS

a large dressmaking pair of scissors and small sharp embroidery scissors or thread snippers.

It is also a good idea to buy a cheap pair of scissors for cutting paper patterns, so you don’t dull your good dressmaking shears. Never use fabric scissors for anything other than fabric.

Pinking shears cost a little more but can be a good option for finishing seams if you don’t have a serger (overlocker). If you have a serger, I'd save my money on pinking shears as although they look pretty, they won't get used very often.

 

9. SEAM RIPPER

Hopefully, you won’t use it too often, but it is a fact of sewing that at some stage, you are going to make mistakes. This happens to even experienced sewers, so don't be discouraged if you have to use yours a lot at first.

Seam rippers are cheap so purchase a couple as once they are blunt they don't do the job properly.

10. ROTARY CUTTER

A rotary cutter looks a little like a pizza cutter and is used mainly in quilting to cut perfect straight edges.

11. RULER

Get a regular clear ruler, preferably with both inches and centimeters. There are many fancy quilting rulers available, but if you are just starting, something simple will do. Clear rulers allow you to see the fabric through it.

12. MEASURING TAPE

Measuring tapes help you take accurate body sewing measurements. One that has both inches and centimeters is handy in case you are sewing from patterns from different countries.

Don't purchase a measuring tape that is too thin or made from plastic, as it will stretch when you are trying to take your measurements, giving you inaccurate results.

13. SEAM GAUGES

A seam gauge is a small measuring device designed to measure small hems, seam allowances, and markings. It is the ruler on the far left of my photo below.

 

14. MARKING SEWING TOOLS

You will need a method of transferring markings onto your fabric. The cheapest marking sewing tools are usually tailor's chalk pencils that come in packs of a few colors like white, blue, and pink.

You will need different colored chalk for different color fabrics. Chalk pencils brush off and are easy to use.

Disappearing pens are a little more expensive but do a good job of accurately transferring markings. If you live in a hot climate, the pens tend to disappear faster.

 

15. IRON AND IRONING BOARD

When sewing, you will need a steam iron and an ironing board. You probably have these already in your house, so I don't expect this is an extra expense. A spray water bottle can be useful for stubborn creases.

A tailor's ham is an optional pressing tool for sewing that is used for more difficult seam pressing.

 

Types of iron boxes

1.      Electric iron

·        Dry

·        steam

2.      manual iron

·        charcoal

3.      gas iron

4.      paraffin iron

5.      pressure iron

how to care for an iron box

1.      Always remember to unplug the iron, when not in use and allow it to cool down before performing any activity.

2.      Clean the steam iron ports as materials from your clothes could clog it. For cleaning purposes, use a thin piece of wire (say – straightened paper clip), and poke the wires in the holes.

3.      Usage of Vinegar to Clean the Inside of the Iron. In the iron tank, fill half distilled white vinegar and half water. Now, use the spray and let the contents steam out. Repeat, if necessary.

4.      Use distilled water to sprinkle on the clothes, before ironing them.

5.      Clean the Soleplate with a cloth dipped in vinegar.

6.      Lastly wipe off your iron carefully once you have cleaned it. Then, remove all the water to prevent any build up. Store it in an upright position.

 

16. SEWING MACHINE

Sewing machines are the workhorse of your craft room. You can use it to sew garments, home decor, small sewing projects, hair accessories, and more. As long as your sewing machine can straight stitch and zig-zag stitch, you will be able to sew the majority of items.

17. LIGHTING

One of the most overlooked items in your sewing tools is great lighting. If you don’t have the budget for a lamp, try positioning your sewing table near a window. Sunlight is free! It will make sewing so much easier.

18. DRESSMAKER DUMMY

A dummy is great to have long-term if you are sewing regularly or sewing as a business

19. SEWING TOOLS - MACHINE FEET

Most sewing machines come with a few presser feet so you shouldn't have to spend much money on these sewing tools.

20. EXTRA BOBBINS

These are a must! Your sewing machine will come with 5 or so bobbins, but a few extra always makes your life easier. Bobbins are cheap. Just make sure they are compatible with your brand of machine.

21. PATTERN WEIGHTS

weight the pattern down with pattern weights and then start cutting

22.  Tailor's ham

A tailor's ham or dressmaker's ham is a tightly stuffed pillow used as a curved mold when pressing curved areas of clothing, such as darts, sleeves, cuffs, collars, or waistlines. Pressing on a curved form allows a garment better to fit body contours. To accommodate tapering or garments of different sizes, it has roughly the shape of a ham

 

1. Hand operated sewing machine

This is like the mustang of sewing machines – very popular once but not anymore. In fact it was the only option once.

The wheel of this sewing machine is operated by hand – there is a handle which you turn to run the machine. The major impediment is that it takes forever to sew anything. If you are interested in anything vintage you may want to buy this one for the novelty of it (I cannot imagine any other reason for anyone else wanting this) you can still get it from some market places.

2. Treadle/manual sewing machine

This sewing machine also works without current – but you will be operating it by using a base stand which you treadle to operate the wheel – the belt attached to the wheel is moved by the force you use to operate the base stand.

This works almost like any other sewing machine, other than the higher manual work required. In many countries, people have access to only this kind of sewing machine. In places where electricity is costly, or even unavailable this is a boon because you can still make things.

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3. Electric sewing machine

A sewing machine is electronic when it has many different options for combining stitches and stitches like overlocking, buttonhole making etc which operates with convenient switches (not knobs or dials). It will have a lot more selections of stitches (multiple Built-in Stitch Programs) than the mechanical one. An electronic sewing machine also has a built-in computer that runs a series of motors inside and may even have LCD displays and touch screens. 

HOW TO CARE FOR A SEWING MACHINE

1. Keep Your Machine covered

The biggest enemy of your machine is dust. You must keep your sewing machine covered when you are not using it. It will keep your machine neat and clean. A dust cover or hard case can be used to cover the sewing machine. 

2. Change your needles regularly

Another important tip is to change your needles regularly. Needles do most of the work in a sewing machine, and over time they can be dull. Dull needles can result in skipped stitches, looped threads pull in the fabric, and eventually damage to the sewing machine. Make sure to change your needles regularly.

It is suggested to change your needles after completing a project or after 8 hours. Needles should be used according to the weight and weave of the fabric that you are working on.

3. Use of Compressed Air to Remove Lint

After completing a project, give your machine a thorough cleanse. Use a new thread that will help you to minimize the lint build-up, but that will not do the entire job. Use compressed air to remove the leftover lint and all of the thread from the feed dogs, bobbin area, and tension discs.

When you are using compressed air to clean the lint, keep it at least 4 inches away from the machine; otherwise, it will introduce moisture into the machine, which is not good for the machine.

4. Annual Service of the Machine

To maintain your machine, make sure to get it serviced every year. Annual servicing is always a good idea, no matter if your machine is expensive or cheap. 

Take your machine to a professional, and he will adjust the timing and the tension. He will clean all of the areas that you can’t reach without taking the entire machine apart. 

5. Oiling of the Machine 

Sewing machines have complex internal working. Oiling the parts inside the machine will help them to run smoothly. It will extend the life of your machine.

Make sure that you buy a good quality sewing machine oil to oil your sewing machine. Never use anything other than sewing machine oil for the oiling of the machine. You can easily purchase sewing machine oil online or from craft stores. The oil should be clear so that it does not stain your fabric. A couple of drops are more than enough to oil your machine.

6. Wipe Down your Machine After Every Use

 To keep your machine in the best shape possible, you should clean it after every use. Wipe your machine with a clean rag after using it. Make sure that you unplug your machine before doing so. It will help to remove any dust or lint build over on your machine that might damage your machine.

7. Clean a Single Part of your Machine at a Time

When you open up your machine, it may not be very clear for you to clean it. Be sure that you clean one part of your machine at a time. Clean apart; place it back in the same place where you found it, and then move on to the next part. With this method, it will be very easy for you to clean every part without getting confused.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PARTS OF A SEWING MACHINE AND THEIR FUNCTIONS

 

 

Functions of Sewing Machine Parts

The function of the different parts of the sewing machine is given below:

Spool Holder

The main function of the spool holder is to control the thread direction and hold the spool. Spool holder may be in the horizontal or vertical direction. Sometimes a sewing machine has more than one spool holder when decorative stitch needed.

Bobbin

The bobbin is a small spindle that is wound with thread. Bobbin supplies the bottom thread during the stitch formation.

Bobbin Case

Bobbin case holds the bobbin. The hook of the bobbin case catches the previously produced needle loop and moves over the bobbin case. As a result, a stitch is formed by the interlacing of bobbin thread & needle thread.

Thread Guide

Thread guide is used to control the direction of the thread. It also helps plenty of supply of thread

Tension Regulator

It is used to control tightness or looseness of the upper thread to avoid puckering problem.

Thread Take Up Lever

The main function of the thread take-up lever is threading the sewing needle and maintain the proper tension. If thread take-up lever is incorrect, the thread will knot up, broken & jam in the machine.

Pressure Bar Lifter

Pressure bar lifter is used for raising and lowering the pressure foot.

Stitch Length Regulator

The main function of the stitch length regulator is to maintain the length of the stitch during sewing. Stitch length may vary depending on fabric type and sewing thread that is used on it.

Balance Wheel

The main function is to raise and lower the needle through manual labor. It is used when an extremely thick piece of fabric is required to be sewn. In the domestic sewing machine, It also helps to wind the sewing thread to the bobbin. It is situated to the right side of the machine.

Slide Plate

It is a rectangular shape which is situated beside the pressure foot, it helps the removal of bobbin case without lifting the machine.

Feed Dog

It helps to pass the cloth through the machine in forwarding direction during the sewing.

Needle and Needle Bar

The main function of the needle is to form the stitch during sewing the cloth. The needle fits in the needle bar which holds the needle with a small screw.

Pressure Foot

It is used to put the pressure on the fabric during sewing. It helps to prevent wrinkle that could mess up the stitch.

Power Switch

The sewing machine is operated sometimes by electricity and manual labor. A power switch is used to supply the electricity to the machine. Normally Power switch is on the right side of the machine. The main function of the power switch is turned on and off the machine. In the modern sewing machine, to give light to the user to see properly when the machine is turned on.

Foot Pedal

It controls the speed of the sewing machine. If you apply more pressure to the pedal you can sew more faster.

Back Sew Button

Back sew is a button which is used to restitch over a very short area to increase the seam strength.

Bobbin Winder

It helps to wind the sewing thread to the bobbin.

 

 

Common Sewing Problems

 

Needle Thread Breakage

Cause	Remedy
Misaligned off winding from thread package.	Ensure that the overhead guide is directly above cop stand pin, at 2½ times the height of the thread package. Use a foam pad to prevent package tilting.
Trapping at package base.	Reduce the thread stand height to prevent vibration and spillage. Use a foam pad to prevent trapping after spillage.
Thread trapped at thread guide.	Can occur after thread breaks. Rethread correctly.
Snarling before tension disc.	Increase the wraps on pre-tension thread guides and reduce disc tension. Ensure discs are smooth.
Excessive tension.	Use a stronger thread or adjust tension.
Broken check spring.	Replace and adjust.
Sharp edges on throat plate, hook point, needle guard, bobbin case, needle groove or eye.	Polish rough edges and replace if necessary. Replace the needle being used with a higher quality needle.
Thread fraying at needle.	Use finer thread or coarser needle, as appropriate.
Excessive needle heat; groove or eye blocked with melted fabric.	Improve the fabric finish. Change to a better needle, style and finish. Apply needle lubricant via thread. Use a needle cooler.
Hook overheating.	Ensure adequate oil supply. Check the needle to hook clearance.
Poor quality thread.	Change to a correctly finished thread of better quality.

Bobbin or Looper Thread Breakage

Cause	Remedy
Badly wound thread on the bobbin.	Adjust bobbin winder alignment. Use pre-wound bobbins.
Tension too tight or bobbin over-running.	Adjust bobbin case tension. Insert a washer or a spring to prevent over-running.
Sharp edges on bobbin case or spring or looper eyelet.	Polish edges and correct surfaces.
Bobbin case not fitting correctly.	Check the size/type of bobbin for flange distortion.

Thread Fusing when the Machine Stops

Cause	Remedy
Poorly finished or incorrect thread.	Use better quality thread.
Densely woven fabric that is poorly or harshly finished.	Improve fabric finish. Change to more suitable needles. Apply needle coolants.
Damaged or overheated needle after thread breakage.	Change the needle.

Skipped-Stitches

Cause	Remedy
Hook, looper or needle failing to enter thread loops at the correct time.	Check machine clearances and timings. Check if the needle is inserted and aligned correctly. Use a needle with a deeper scarf.
Thread loop failure caused by incorrect needle size / style for thread size / type.	Change needle size / style.
Thread loop failure due to incorrect setting of thread control mechanism causing thread loop starvation.	Reset to standard and check loop formation with a strobe.
Flagging of fabric due to poor presser foot control or too large a throat plate hole.	Re-adjust the presser foot pressure. Change the throat plate to match the needle.
Needle deflections or bent needle.	Use a reinforced needle, reset the needle guard and replace the needle.
Incorrect sewing tension in the needle or under threads.	Re-adjust the tensions.
Poor thread loop formation.	Check with a strobe. Change to superior spun polyester or filament-based core spun threads.

Imbalanced / Variable Stitching

Cause	Remedy
Incorrect sewing tensions.	Check for snarling, adjust thread tensions.
Incorrect threading.	Rethread machine.
Needle thread snagging on bobbin case or positioning finger.	Polish bobbin case surfaces. Reset positioning finger and opening finger.
Variable tension due to poor thread lubrication.	Switch to superior quality threads.

Staggered Stitching

Cause	Remedy
Needle vibration or deflection.	Increase needle size or change to a reinforced or tapered needle.
Incorrect or blunt needle point.	Change the needle.
Incorrect needle-to-thread size relationship.	Change needle or thread size as appropriate.
Feed dog sway.	Tighten the feed dog.
Poor fabric control, presser foot bounce.	Reset the presser foot. Change the feed mechanism.

Variable Stitch Density

Cause	Remedy
Poor fabric feed control.	Increase the presser foot pressure. Change to a more positive feed mechanism.

Seam Pucker

Cause	Remedy
Variable differential fabric feed.	Improve the fabric feed mechanism. Replace worn out feed dogs. Reduce the maximum sewing speed.
High thread tension.	Keep the bobbin tension as low as possible and set the needle thread tension accordingly.
Incorrect thread balance.	Ensure proper balance between the top and bottom thread.
Improper thread type.	Use threads with controlled elongation. Properly maintain tension guides.